The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi sits majestically to the east of the plaza and is, without a doubt, the heart of downtown Santa Fe, NM.  Her stately Romanesque architecture is prominent to the eye among the pueblo-style adobe structures that surround her.  And like the city itself, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi reflects many cultural influences in its architecture and art.

As you climb the steps of the terrace to approach the soaring 160-foot-tall golden-brown sandstone Mother Church of the Archdiocese, you are greeted by three statues – St. Francis, the patron saint of the Archdiocese, St. Kateri Tekakwitha, the first Native American Indian to be canonized, and Fr. John Baptist Lamy, the first bishop of the diocese of Santa Fe.  For the past 125 years, the cathedral has been a gentle commanding presence in downtown Santa Fe.

Photo by Panoramio, 2008

           Upon entering into the main body of this sacred place, an awe-inspiring sense of strong historical faith and rich cultural tradition is projected from floor to rafter.   The teasing fragrance of Myrrh and Cedar of Lebanon subtly fill the air - remnants of the incense used at Sunday mass. As you marvels up at the high-vaulted ceilings and round arches – separated by Corinthian columns and curtailed square towers – you take notice of the intricate stenciling that elaborately accents and trims the walls with brilliance and warmth. Elevated behind the sanctuary, towards the front of the church, is a towering altar screen that depicts the saints of the New World.  Each depiction is in classic iconography style set against a backdrop of pure 24 karat gold leaf.  This vivid altar screen is caressed by a long sheer satin valance that drapes in a flawless manner.  Above this altar screen hangs the San Damiano cross – a replica of the one in Italy where it is said that St. Francis received commission from the Lord while praying to rebuild the Church.  In front of the altar screen and in the center of the sanctuary rests a noble altar flanked by two candles on both sides.

While sitting down in one of the pews, it is easy to find serenity in this truly breath-taking “house of God.”  The trickling sound of water flows from the Brazilian granite baptismal font in the center of the nave while the faint whispers of Gregorian chant meditatively echo from the sound system speakers.  Other voices can also be heard, but these are merely the soft observances of other visitors and tourists to the area.  Despite the mixture of these delicate sounds, a prayerful sacred silence seems to penetrate and be ever-present in this holy space.  

Left of the sanctuary is a small adobe chapel dedicated to Our Lady in her title "La Conquistadora". This statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary is the oldest Madonna in the United States - dating back to around the 14th century.  Every year she is carried in procession to her chapel at Rosario cemetery and a novena (a series of nine day masses) is held in her honor - a promise made by Don Diego DeVargas for a peaceful reconquest of the city of Santa Fe and a promise kept to this very day.  This is one of the oldest and continuous traditions throughout the world.  It is hard not to catch you eye as the brilliant gold leafed altar is reflected by the sunlight, while there appears to be an aura or glow radiating from La Conquistadora.   This statue only adds to the depth of rich history behind the Cathedral Basilica.  And it is no coincident that the translation of Santa Fe means city of "Holy Faith".

The Cathedral Basilica ultimately stands as a reflection of the eclectic mix of people and cultures that history and circumstances have gathered together.  Beyond her richness in architecture and art, and along with the central role in the faith of her parishioners, the Cathedral Basilica serves the larger spiritual and cultural life of Santa Fe.  In the reflectional words of previous rector, Msgr. Jerome Martinez y Alire: “The Cathedral is truly the ‘heart’ of Santa Fe because even if people are not Catholic, they feel part of it.  It’s a treasury of traditions, culture and faith.”

WORKS CITED

"Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.” Wikipedia. n.p. 4 Nov. 2012. Web. 10 Nov. 2012.

    

Fauntleroy, Gussie. "Soul of Santa Fe" Trend. Summer 2012, Vol 13.1: 84-91. Print.